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Passage to PierogiA Nomadic Slavic Soul Food Chef Finds Shelter in Siberia's KitchenThe music is currently on hiatus at Siberia, but there's another reason to make the Marigny outpost a destination: a visit to Kukhnya, one of the best bar food spots in the St. Claude corridor.
Not just a reincarnation of bar food, Kukhnya (pronounced COOK-nee-ya) is serving up Slavic soul food, including pierogi, cabbage rolls, stroganoff, and blini, on casual red menus under a cascading Soviet era flag.
Matthew Ribachonek, the man behind Kukhnya, has created a “mash-up” of classic Slavic faire, substantial burgers and sandwiches--of both beef and beat variety--as well as lighter options that include asparagus and beet salads, and fresh veggie offerings.
A recent daily vegetable special, one of many options under three dollars, was a boat of perfectly tender green beans with fresh lemon zest and tender dill tossed in a garlicky butter sauce. NoDef's favorite taste matchup of the night was the apple and asparagus blini, where apple, grilled asparagus, and smooth goat cheese collide with a light honey, lemon, and dill sauce.
A menu highlight, and soon-to-be local obsession, the pierogies are toothsome yet pillowy, pan fried with crispy golden edges and served with translucent fried onions and a cool cloud of sour cream. The pierogies are a legacy Ribachonek credits to his Ukranian grandmother.
"I remember growing up and helping out, me with a bunch of old ladies in the kitchen, some with arthritis, just making pierogies all day, and wanting to help 'em out," he said.
Ribachonek’s resume includes working at diners as well as high-end restaurants, catering, and working the occasional pop-up, as well as selling pierogies out of his backpack in tattoo shops. Luckily for us locals there’s a seven-day-a-week option for potato dumplings.
The unassuming charm and darkness of Siberia’s atmosphere meshes well with the Eastern European theme of the menu, as well as the thrifty feeling that you’re getting a lot for your rubbles.
The Kitchen at Siberia is open seven days a week, 5 p.m. - Midnight. |
Contributors:Dead Huey Long, Emma Boyce, Ian Hoch, Sarah Esenwein, Ryan Sparks, Will Dilella, Chris Rinaldi, Lianna Patch, Phil Yiannopoulos, Cate Czarnecki, Jonas Griffin, Jennifer Abbot, Mary Kilpatrick, Elaina Patton, Mike Horst, Devin Bambrick, Katherine McGuire, Norris Ortolano, Joe Shriner Staff WritersRyan Sparks, Kerem Ozkan Listings Elisabeth Morgan Puzzler Paolo Roy Art Director: Michael Weber, B.A. Assistant Managing EditorMary-Devon Dupuy Managing EditorStephen Babcock Editor: B. E. Mintz Published Daily byMinced Media, Inc. |
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