In Mexico folks call it chayote, and in the Caribbean it goes by christophene, but down in south Louisiana we know it as the mirliton. Whatever you call it, this little fruit is a big deal to many locals, though its reputation in the U.S. doesn’t extend far beyond the Gulf South.  

While not nearly as ubiquitous as many of its other relatives in the squash family, the mirliton has developed a devoted following and will be celebrated this weekend in true New Orleans style, with its very own festival.

The mirliton originated in Mexico and made its way to New Orleans as Spanish settlers arrived from the Canary Islands in the 1700’s.  Since then, mirlitons have gained a prominent spot in both Cajun and Creole cooking and have long been popular in backyard gardens, often given away by neighbors rather than bought at the grocery store.  It makes sense, then, that the annual Mirliton Festival, now in its 22nd year, began as neighborhood party at Bud Rip’s—a friendly local watering hole at Piety and Burgundy Streets—though that 1989 pot-luck has now evolved into a full-blown music-and-food affair at Markey Park.  

NoDef talked with Chris Lorenzen, President of the Bywater Neighborhood Association and co-chair—along with Jen Buuck—of this year’s fest.  “It typifies Bywater,” Lorenzen said of the mirliton.  “It’s quirky and weird.”

In New Orleans, quirky and weird is a good thing, and of all the family-friendly fests in the city, the Mirliton Festival is one of the few held in the Bywater.  “We get a lot of residents that come out for it,” said Lorenzen. “Everyone I talk to is super-excited, and everyone in the neighborhood just loves it.”

“I didn’t even know what a mirliton was until I moved here,” admitted Lorenzen.  Since then, though, the Bywater resident has embraced the fall fruit, a seasonal specialty that’s a staple in south Louisiana this time of year, particularly on holiday menus.  Now, like lots of other folks around New Orleans, he looks forward to celebrating one of the best kept secrets of our local culinary culture.

Mirlitons, of course, are the star attraction at the food stalls, served pickled, fried, stuffed, or in slaws, salads, and casseroles.

“Every single food vendor you go to you’re going to find a mirliton dish,” Lorenzen told NoDef.  

The versatile veggie lends itself to both traditional preparations and creative interpretations, giving hungry fest-goers a chance to try something old and something new.  This year’s fest features food from a number of Bywater restaurants, including Jack Dempsey’s, The Joint, and Satsuma, whose roasted mirliton lasagna has Lorenzen particularly excited.    

Kermit Ruffins headlines the music for this year’s event, capping off a bill that also includes bluesmen Little Freddie King and Guitar Lightning Lee performing together, local bands Happy Talk and Hurray for the Riff Raff, and others.  There also will be an art market, children’s activities, and a Miss Mirliton Pageant, a contest that’s sure to be as colorful as the neighborhood hosting it.

“We really wanted to make it good for kids,” said Lorenzen, “and we wanted people to be able to bring their kids, then maybe go home drop the kids off and come back for the evening.”  Lorenzen’s particularly excited about bringing Dancing Man 504 to this year’s fest, a local performer you’ve no doubt seen at second lines, festivals, and brass band shows around the city. Dancing Man will be on hand to teach kids how to second line, then he’ll lead them on a second line parade through the park later in the day.

“We have an awesome lineup and the weather is going to be fantastic,” he said.  “Positive. Great vibe.  Beautiful day. That’s how I can sum it up.”

Here's the fest's full music scheudle:

11 a.m. The Tumbleweeds
Noon Tuba Skinny
1 p.m. Hurray for the Riff Raff
2 p.m. King James and the Special Men
3 p.m. Happy Talk Band
4:30 p.m. Little Freddie King and Guitar Lightning Lee 
6 p.m. Kermit Ruffins